Meet Up Mondays is a new column here at The Manual where we sit down with designers who inspires us and learn more about them and their brand. New York’s fashion design landscape has never looked more exciting with a new generation of modern American sportswear brands such as Public School, the menswear brand, stealing the limelight from womenswear in winning the year’s most coveted CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund fashion prize. If there’s one name you should watch out for, however, it’s David Hart. Best known for his amusingly decorative ties, the Maryland native won the Fashion Group International Scholarship at the age of 17, earning him the reputation of that designer to watch. Later, upon graduating from FIT, he would work for some of the country’s best known houses including Anna Sui, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren. This past fall, Hart made the leap from neckwear to menswear by debuting his first full collection, including a footwear collaboration with Walk-Over Shoes. To some, the jump might have recalled another accessories designer entering the big leagues—Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders—but make no mistake, Hart’s designs—clean American sportswear with a sense of dash and refinement mixed with effusive colors and prints—are all his. We spoke to Hart over the break about the year ahead for him and the quintessential elements of good style.M: It’s the start of a new year. Happy New Year! What did you get up to over the holidays? DH: I spent the holidays in Los Angeles; it was great to get away from the cold weather. Some highlights include visiting the museum or Jurassic Technology, LACMA, mid-century modern architecture tours, and lunch at Musso and Frank with Nick Waterhouse.M: It’s also probably the busiest time of the year for menswear designers. You’re gearing up for another fashion week, I gather. How’s it going to be different from the last for you?DH: This year I am really coming into my element. We are working with the best mills and factories in the world and the collection is much more elevated than before. This season I’ve paid close attention to the textiles and the shapes which are much more flattering than the suits we are used to seeing from other designers. I’ve also taken full advantage of my background in sweater design as we are very knitwear driven for Fall 2014.M: Yes, for the guy who isn’t familiar with your label, what is David Hart about?DH: The concept of “New Futurism” has always been the underlying theme behind my collections. The clothing exudes a sense of optimism about the future through the attention to detail, construction, materials and fit.M: A lot of people have criticized fashion week for becoming a circus. Do designers, however, have a choice but to partake of it in order to generate publicity?DH: I think there are creative ways of generating press other than fashion shows; the Internet and social media have changed the way people view and see fashion, and it’s still rapidly changing. I think that the fashion industry is still trying to keep up. Having said that, fashion shows are one of [the] ways for designers to have a platform to showcase their collections and have a sense of identity—it’s an integral part of the business. I think it’s more or less the exuberant amount of people around fashion week and the shows that have turned it into a circus—it’s become more about the events themselves than the clothing.M: Do fashion shows need to go on?DH: I think they are an important platform for designers to have a voice, so yes they should go on, but editors and buyers will only attend the shows they think are worth covering or seeing. There is a lot of talent in New York and worldwide, so I think the important shows will surface and the others will fall by the wayside.M: Guys have more menswear options than ever to shop right now. What are three items every guy needs in his wardrobe right now?DH: A great tab collar dress shirt, a fine gauge merino wool polo shirt and a mohair suit.M: I also see that you include an evening/formalwear component in all your collections. Are these made-to-measure and what’s your advice for getting into formalwear?DH: We offer made-to-measure services but also offer these as ready-to-wear. With formal wear it’s best to keep things classic and follow all of the rules. If you do it, do it right: studs, braces, bow tie, pique shirt with a bib and the right collar. It’s also acceptable to add some color or a tuxedo jacket as long as you keep the trousers black.M: You started out with neckwear of course. Are there any (unwritten) rules to neckwear? DH: Neckwear is a reflection of your personality. Keep things light and you will be ok. When in doubt, always wear a tie; it’s the new way of standing out in a crowd.M: Sweatpants. Thoughts?DH: No, thank you. Or stick to wearing them for the appropriate activities, i.e., working out, sports, etc.M: What’s another style faux-pas for the “modern gent”?DH: Athletic socks worn for any other purpose than athleticism.M: Any overused fashion terms you’d like to retire for good in 2014?DH: Bespoke. It’s overused and not used properly. Let’s please give it a rest.M: You know that everyone loved your spring collection. Can you tell us a little more about it and if there is one piece to get what would it be, and why?DH: The Hawaiian shirt is a must for Spring 2014—especially the ones we showed. Be mindful of the fit and the prints. No one should be caught dead in a bad Hawaiian print.M: What’s one good, perhaps hidden gem of a store you can recommend a guy to go shopping?DH: Church Street Surplus.M: And if we wanted to run into you, where would we find you?DH: I’m an enigma.Photos courtesy of David Hart; portrait by David White. Editors’ Recommendations A Peek Inside the Joseph Abboud Factory: Italian Fabric, Made in America The Lamborghini Huracán Sterrato Shows Us What an Off-Road Supercar Would Look Like Why Every Man Should Care About Slow Fashion Meet the Spirits Network, the Real-Time Shoppable QVC of Booze The Best Podcasts to Listen to at Work
15 December 2007Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon has welcomed the outcome of the landmark United Nations Climate Change Conference in Bali, Indonesia, in which 187 countries today agreed to launch a two-year process of formal negotiations on strengthening international efforts to fight, mitigate and adapt to the problem of global warming. After almost two weeks of marathon discussions, delegates have agreed on both the agenda for the negotiations and a 2009 deadline for completing them so that a successor pact to the Kyoto Protocol on greenhouse gas emissions can enter into effect in 2013.Under the so-called Bali Roadmap, the key issues during the upcoming negotiations will be: taking action to adapt to the negative consequences of climate change, such as droughts and floods; devising ways to reduce greenhouse gas emissions; finding ways to deploy climate-friendly technology; and financing adaptation and mitigation measures.Participating countries have also agreed on a series of steps that can be taken immediately to strengthen their commitment to the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), such as combating deforestation in poor countries, the scaling up of investment in green technology and enhancing funding for adaptation measures.The text does not specify or mandate emissions targets, but it does say that deep cuts in emissions will be needed to avoid the worst effects of climate change.In a statement issued after the Bali Roadmap was adopted, Mr. Ban called it “a pivotal first step toward an agreement that can address the threat of climate change, the defining challenge of our time,” adding that the agreement had met all the benchmarks for success he set out when the Conference began.The Secretary-General said he “appreciates the spirit of cooperation shown by all parties to achieve an outcome that stands to benefit all humanity.”Mr. Ban returned today to Bali, after a one-day visit to Timor-Leste, to take part in the final stages of the Conference, which was extended by an extra day as delegates closed in on a deal.But even a few hours before the Roadmap was adopted, it was not clear there would be any breakthrough, prompting Mr. Ban to appeal to delegates not to “risk everything you have achieved so far… The hour is late. It is time to make a decision.”Mr. Ban’s statement welcoming the Roadmap’s eventual adoption was echoed by leading UN and international environmental officials at the Conference.UNFCCC Executive Secretary Yvo de Boer said Bali had produced “a real breakthrough, a real opportunity for the international community to successfully fight climate change. Parties have recognized the urgency of action on climate change and have now provided the political response to what scientists have been telling us is needed.”In his closing address to the plenary session, the Conference President and Indonesian Environment Minister Rachmat Witoelar hailed the “number of forward-looking decisions” in the text.”But we also have a huge task ahead of us and time to reach agreement is extremely short, so we need to move quickly,” he said.Four major UNFCCC meetings to implement the Bali Roadmap are planned for next year, with the first to be held in either March or April. The negotiations process is scheduled to conclude in 2009 at a major summit in Copenhagen.
Hundreds of civil service jobs for Brexit negotiators have not been filled days before talks formally begin about the UK’s departure from the European Union, the public spending watchdog has warned. The Government has created jobs for over 1,000 civil servants to negotiate Brexit but only filled two thirds of them just days before talks formally start, the publc spending watchdog has found.The report will cause alarm in Whitehall because Theresa May, the Prime Minister, will formally start the two year process of Britain leaving the EU on Wednesday next week. It suggested that projects should be prioritised, with the Government halting schemes that “it is not confident it has the capacity to deliver”. The NAO said: “Government projects too often go ahead without government knowing whether departments have the skills to deliver them.”The report said: “Government is facing ever-increasing challenges in providing public services. Continuing budgetary restraint is putting pressure on departments, which are already managing important reforms with fewer staff and smaller budgets. It said ministers had accepted the need to do more on workforce planning but “progress so far has been slower than the growth in the challenges the civil service is facing”.The NAO said Brexit will add to the strain on a civil service already struggling to cope with major projects.The Government needed to show “greater urgency” in filling skills gaps in Whitehall, it said. “The decision to leave the EU also means government will have to take on tasks previously undertaken by others, requiring the development of skills not previously planned for.”Amyas Morse, the head of the NAO, said: “Government has gaps in its capability and knows it must do more to develop the skills it needs. A report from the public spending watchdog said in a report that hundreds of jobs remain unfilled at the Department for Exiting the European Union and Department for International Development.The National Audit Office said: “As of February 2017, the civil service has created over a thousand new roles in the new departments and elsewhere to prepare for exiting the EU and negotiating new trade agreements.“Two-thirds of the roles have been filled, mostly by transferring staff from elsewhere in government. There has not been a commensurate increase in the overall size of the civil service.” Want the best of The Telegraph direct to your email and WhatsApp? Sign up to our free twice-daily Front Page newsletter and new audio briefings. There has not been a commensurate increase in the overall size of the civil serviceNational Audit Office “It is making plans to do so but the scale of the challenge ahead means greater urgency is needed. “Without a short-term solution to its capability gaps, government must get better at planning and prioritising its activities and be prepared to stop work on those it is not confident it has the capability to deliver.”Sir Jeremy Heywood, the head of Civil Service, said: “The UK is well placed to deal with the challenges, and take advantage of the opportunities, that lie ahead as we prepare for Brexit.“We are focused on delivering this Government’s commitment to leave the EU and get the very best deal for the UK. We are equipping ourselves with the right people and the right skills across government to make this happen. Leaving the European Union will “further increase the capability challenges” facing the Government, it said, as officials take on responsibilities previously handled in Brussels. “At the same time, the civil service is also working hard to make sure that all the priorities of the Government are being delivered.”